Northern Ireland

*Giant’s Causeway - hexagon shaped rocks and towers formed by successive lava flows hitting the ocean*

We entered Northern Ireland from The Republic of Ireland with no fanfare or signs. Despite the historically troubled relationship between the two, and the added complications of Brexit, the island is boundary-free for travel back and forth. But our phones notified us that we had entered the UK so we duly swapped out our EU currency for GBP in our wallets and were ready to greet a new country.

*Our six-day driving route through Northern Ireland*

The countryside felt familiar after our time in The Republic of Ireland, covered with lush green fields divided by carefully built stone walls. People were still friendly and cheerful and curious about how we ended up there in our American truck.

Our first stop was an amazing site - caves and a beautiful mountain hike from the same place. We signed up for a tour of the caves (required about an hour) at Marble Arch later in the day and then set off to walk up Cuilcagh Mountain - a full day for the two activities that we would highly recommend.

*Marble Arch Caves, exploring the caverns and formations with our knowledgeable guide who had got lost in them as a boy*

*Andy trying really hard not to blink while the flash goes off*

*Stunning hike up Cuilcagh Mountain - 7 miles roundtrip, including boardwalk across the bog (Dawn was grateful) and steps*

*One of the benefits of travelling in your house - you can just pop up, have tea, and/or take a nap in the middle of the day - awesome.*

Growing up in the US in the 60’s to 90’s, we had a sense of the violence and conflict that had beleaguered this small area of the UK. But our knowledge was incomplete and colored with early memories of bombings and riots, and an impression of randomized victims across both sides. But having just steeped ourselves in Irish history in The Republic of Ireland we had a much greater understanding. It also helped that we spent 17 hours listening to a treatise on Northern Ireland written by native professor of political conflict.

Once again we arrived at a historic moment. Elections were being held and for the first time the Sinn Féin party, representing the Nationalist voters who want a united Ireland without any British rule (mostly Catholic and associated with the Irish Republican Army) won control. We asked our walking tour guide in Belfast about his thoughts on this development. He shrugged and said that it was inevitable, due to population demographics. Although Northern Ireland was created in 1921 with boundaries purposefully designed to ensure a majority Unionist (pro remaining part of the United Kingdom and mostly Protestant) population, over time the Catholic population has grown at a much greater rate and people expect that it will not be long before the tides turn and the population of the country vote to leave the UK and join with the Republic of Ireland (predominantly Catholic). Brexit has also led to an increase in pro Nationalism as younger generations are less likely to philosophically align themselves with a particular religion and see opportunity and advantage in being part of the EU.

However, the realities of an island nation split in two were very much present when we travelled to the urban areas. We found that in Londonderry and Belfast, neighborhoods were still divided along sectarian lines and children still went to schools based on their family’s religion, in many cases with few opportunities to meet or interact with peers on the other side.

One of the Bogside Murals in Londonderry - “The Death of Innocence” depicting 14 year old Annette McGavigan, the 100th civilian to be killed in the fighting between the British soldiers and the Irish Republican Army

We wandered the Bogside area of Londonderry, site of Bloody Sunday (13 demonstrators killed by British paratroopers). The area still felt haunted by the suffering of the past, an eerie blend of murals commemorating events up until the signing of the Good Friday peace agreement in 1998, and posters, slogans and graffiti from recent years.

The city of Londonderry itself was an intriguing mix of robust medieval city walls and a small walkable city centre with colorful shops and restaurants. We tried hard to avoid language pitfalls - Londonderry is the official name of the city but Nationalists call it Derry. We also found out that Nationalists called the fighting before the peace agreement “the conflict” while Unionists called it “the troubles.” So much to be aware of. Our walking tour guide explained the key historical events, including King James II’s 105-day unsuccessful siege of the city in 1689. He was there to wrest control of Ireland from William of Orange and eventually lost. Still today there is an annual celebration in the Protestant community of the 13 apprentices who closed the gates and a reiteration of the slogan “no surrender” which can be seen on signs around town. Overall, despite the real obstacles still to overcome to knit the country together, we felt a sense of optimism from the people we spoke to.

Back on the road, we couldn’t visit Northern Ireland without a stop at Bushmills, the oldest distillery in the world and a classic. This was another great two-event day, easy to visit the distillery and the renowned Giant’s Causeway in one stop. We booked our tour then drove a mile down the road to park at a trailhead and walk to Giant’s Causeway - a beautiful 7 mile roundtrip walk that avoided the crowds and fees at the Causeway Visitor’s Center.

*Fantastic tour at Bushmills with a guide that explained the whole process, from barley harvest to aging, and culminating with a tasting.*

*View from the cliff above down on Giant’s Causeway*

*Cliff walk from town of Bushmill to Giant’s Causeway*

In Northern Ireland, we also used Park4Night to find overnight spots. It was a little more challenging, and we primarily found ourselves at parking lots for public walking areas.

*Typical overnight spot in Northern Ireland - we did not see many other campers there in May*

*Stopped at Navan Fort, site of the prehistoric kingdom of Ulster. Believed to be built as a sanctuary, you can still see the basic mound and ditches.*

Our final stop before Belfast was our favorite place in Northern Ireland, the Mourne Mountains. We climbed Slieve Binnian, absolutely stunning.

*Hiking in the Mourne Mountains - 7 mile hike*

*Hiking in the mountains - our happy place*

*A moment to geek out at Castle Ward - a large rambling estate, fun to explore the grounds and castle and this fortified keep which was the site for Winterfell in Game of Thrones*

Our final stop - Belfast. We spent two nights here, rare for us but we were in need of a bit of a break. We found a big budget hotel right out of town (Balmoral) with a huge outdoor parking lot and a bus line straight to downtown.

Belfast pleasantly surprised us, we had no expectations but ended up enjoying the city. It has gone through significant renovation and economic growth in the last 20 years and it felt like it was on the edge of prosperity. We had a great pub dinner at McHughs, did our standard historic walking tour, and wandered aimlessly.

*Dawn took the chance to see true Irish dancing in Belfast - so much fun. Meanwhile Andy parked the truck on a backstreet and got to know the pub bouncers and local drinkers walking by.*

*Crown Liquor Saloon -originally a Victorian gin bar, now operated by the National Trust, but you can still drink there*

*Europa Hotel - dubious distinction of being the most bombed hotel in the world*

Visiting the peace walls of Shankill Road, one of the longest and largest peace walls standing in Europe. Another area that felt haunted by the past. The walls were erected to protect neighborhoods from each other and are mostly still standing today. Shankill road is a predominantly Protestant area adjacent to predominantly Catholic area.

*May this be true someday. True hope is swift, and flies with swallow's wings.*

*The ups and downs of life on the road - only negative is that we miss these three incredible people. Remote Mother’s Day celebration, just not quite the same.*

We welcome any comments or questions, still new to this blog idea and searching a little for what the purpose is. Of course, having the record for ourselves is fun, but we want to be useful and informative to other travelers - either the in person or armchair version. As always, thank you for reading!

Wales

Ireland