Benin

*Visiting the chameleon Voodoo church outside Abomey*

Benin exceeded all our expectations and quickly became one of our favorite West African countries. A small, French speaking nation, our time there was rich with cultural learning, fascinating architecture, art, and interesting people. The whole country was an enchanting experience. Benin is opening its doors to tourists with the easiest West African visa system of all. You apply online, pay a fee and receive your visa almost immediately by email.

After the police corruption in Togo, the border fiascos in Ghana and the reserved culture of the people of Côte d'Ivoire (at least toward strangers), Benin felt like a continual sensory overload of travel “wow” moments.

Our first stop over any border, find sim cards so we can use our phones. Note the yellow van in the corner with the technicians in yellow vests. They got us set up. We definitely prefer finding the 20-something-year-olds who you just hand your phone over to, and after a seemingly endless time clicking away and a payment, voila, you have coverage.

With phones working, we set off to find some Tata Somba houses to explore. Similar to the conical homes in northern Togo, in Benin the Somba people build fortress like homes, or Tata, out of clay and mud.

*Tata Somba in northwestern Benin (we visited them outside of Kossoucoingou where we crossed the border)*

There are sign posted routes that you can drive to see the houses from the road, but this time we wanted to know more about the culture and see the architecture up close, so we went to the visitor center in Kossoucoingou where we were able to hire a guide for the two of us for about $8 each.

*We found the houses to be incredibly unique and intriguing*

*Hearing that Andy was a forester, one of the first stops with the guide was to visit the biggest tree in the village. A Baobab tree house.*

*Built for safety and practicality, living and cooking space downstairs, sleeping area up top.*

*Some of the conical roofs are removable so that grain and other food can be stored inside, high and dry.*

*View from the village over endless rainforest*

*Beautiful patterns pressed into the clay*

*Fascinating to see and understand more about the traditional lives of people living in these villages, cooking over fire, carrying water from a nearby well. It is a very physical life.*

*Following our guide through the village, despite the language barrier he showed us a lot.*

Searching for a spot to spend the night and feeling the oppressive heat closing in on us, we saw a waterfall on the map and made our way there. We forgot it was the end of the dry season. The caretaker smiled when we arrived and said that we were welcome but that it was “small small” right now. But the parking area made a good place to spend the night and he was happy to have us stay.

*Small small waterfall (common African euphemism, to repeat the word to mean “very.”)*

Heading south, our next stop was Abomey, a town which was the capital of the Kingdom of Dahomey from the 17th-19th centuries. The Kingdom of Dahomey included the area that is currently known as Benin and parts of what is now Nigeria and Togo. It had a thriving trading economy from 1600 through the 1800’s. Europeans sought the Kingdom’s artwork, gold, ivory, salt and pepper. The Kingdom was also active in the slave trade with the Americans and Europeans, providing conquered people as trade for weapons and other goods. The Kingdom reached its greatest strength in the late 1700’s building an organized military which included the famous Amazon women warriors. During the 1800’s, the kingdom strove to retain united power with royal family members fighting each other for control while at the same time struggling to resist foreign (at that time mostly British) influence on its trading networks.

The Kingdom was also feeling territorial tensions with France and in 1894 it fell to the French after the second Franco-Dahomean War. At that time the area was annexed into French West Africa as the colony of French Dahomey.

In 1958 the area ceased to be a pawn in European power plays and gained independence as the Republic of Dahomey. The young country struggled with three rival leaders vying for power. In the next 14 years there were five coups and changes in leadership. The country was re-named The Republic of Benin in 1975 because the name was deemed politically neutral for all the ethnic groups. It was also the beginning of a Marxist-Leninist government which lasted for 15 years until 1990 when it was replaced by the multi-party Republic of Benin.

*Our three weeks in Benin, we relaxed with some layover days and spent over a week and a half in Cotonou and beaches at the end, waiting for our Nigerian visas*

Despite being surrounded by countries with significant unrest and terrorism, Benin is stable and safe. It is the ONLY West African country to date that we have travelled through with absolutely no police or military stops. There is a police presence, but they are in the background watching– no barriers, no requests for money. The locals told us that in an effort to increase visitation, the president has directed the police not to stop tourists. This is a big contrast with other countries where as soon as we have been spotted by the police or military we are waved over for conversation.

Benin also ranks among the world’s poorest countries. Its economy is based on cotton and subsistence agriculture. We could see the lack of infrastructure and development as we drove the country. Most people live in small, self-built homes. But peoples’ clothes are extraordinary, the fabrics absolutely gorgeous. It is also the first country where it is equally as common for the men to be incredibly dressed in beautiful textiles as the women. Most villages had several women out in front of their houses with sewing machines on tables under the shade tree. One Benin citizen we talked to said that there is a lot of national pride in expressing their identity through wearing the local traditional fabrics and we could see it.

*Our camping spot on the grounds of the Auberge d’Abomey, $5/night.*

In Abomey, we opted to camp on the grounds of a hotel so that we could be in town and explore the culture and history. We pulled in at 5pm, hot and tired. The manager asked us if we would be interested in a guide to take us around the town the next day, we said sure.

About an hour later, Mark showed up and told us he could be our guide for a tour of the town the next day. He also said we should come with him that evening as it was the final day of a village Voodoo ceremony that only happens once a year. We politely declined, saying that we were tired but looking forward to exploring with him the next day. He was engagingly persistent, reiterating that this was an annual event, very special, in his village and he could take us. We relented and an hour later the three of us were wedged on his motorbike heading out of town on a dark bumpy road.

It was one of the most extraordinary experiences we have had. The kindness with which we were received into the space was amazing. There were no other tourists there. The village Chief set up chairs for us next to his. Mark told us exactly what to do and expect so we felt comfortable. We do not know much about Voodoo but felt honored to be a witness to the ceremony that night and understand more about the beliefs and practices. Everyone said the same thing, “we are happy you are here, we want you to understand, we want to share with you.” We were also welcomed to take pictures which surprised us.

*Women dancers resting before the ceremony*

*Seated next to the village chief and musicians*

Mark interpreted the dances for us, each one invoking the spirits for the health and wellbeing of the village. We thanked him profusely for talking us and went to bed satiated.

The next day we set off with Mark to explore the royal palaces of Abomey and learn more about Voodoo. As Mark explained, Voodoo is a national religion for Benin, steeped in history and the ways of their ancestors. Most people adhere to some of the beliefs and often practice Voodoo alongside or in addition to the Christian or Islam religions.

Voodoo is more than a belief system for the people of Benin. It is a complete way of life, including culture, philosophy, language, art, dance, music, and medicine.

The Voodoo spiritual world consists of over 100 divinities - or Voodoos - who represent different phenomena. There are four basic categories: water, air, earth and fire; each divinity fits into one of these areas. Voodoo priests ask these gods to intervene on behalf of ordinary people but everyone we spoke to stressed that the priests have nothing to do with sorcery or black magic as depicted in mainstream Western media. People seek help from the priests on a variety of issues, to have a child, find a spouse, be cured of an illness. Some Voodoo priests also use herbs or dried animals to cure disease.

*Our first stop in learning about Voodoo in Abomey was the Voodoo church shaped like a chameleon - the spirit of life.*

*We were welcomed inside for the service. Women and children sang and danced and the priest told a story about peace and getting along with each other. I say there is no darkness but ignorance.*

Once again we were welcomed inside a sacred space, the only tourists there and invited to take pictures. The priest addressed us, translated by Mark, to say that he was happy we were there and wanted to learn. There is a high awareness of how Voodoo is represented in American entertainment and a desire to tell the story that it is really about hope and healing, not cursing.

*Even the children wore the most beautiful clothes*

*The Voodoo temple, not open to the those not confirmed in Voodoo.*

*Art on the side of the temple, a woman bowing to a king.*

*The women’s dresses say in French, “Voodoo is the road that brings you to God.”*

*Some of the boys in the village wanted us to take their picture, we were happy to.*

*Mark, our guide, at the door to the Voodoo priest’s home.*

*We visited a 102-year-old Voodoo priest who told us the story of how he collects herbs in the sacred forest*

*Voodoo priest spreading water onto the fetishes (representing the spirits) on his altar*

*Visit to another fetish market with dried animal parts and herbs used for a variety of healing Voodoo practices*

From the world of Voodoo we went to the world of kings. Abomey had been the seat of the kings of Dahomey for several hundred years and almost every king (12 of them) had an official (for business) and unoffical (to live with the family) palace.

The palaces were similar in design, large red earth courtyards with low slung buildings of red clay. We were happy to visit two, we did not have the stamina to visit all of them. We had a complete history lesson of the kings and visited the museum. No pictures allowed inside the museum but we did see the throne of King Behanzin which has as its base the skulls of four of his enemies.

*A day well spent, Mark taught us a lot with good cheer and humor*

Then we went back on the road, heading south. We had skipped a far northern section of the country with a reputedly stunning national park due to recent Boko Haram terrorist kidnapping of tourists in the area. We heard several times from locals that the northern part of Benin was “not good for tourists.” But all the places we went felt welcoming, even though we were typically the only tourists.

*Roads when not paved were good dirt ones. Yellow plastic container indicates gas for sale.*

We quickly realized in Benin that the gas infrastructure was not the same as Togo. Most of the gas in Benin is smuggled in from Nigeria and sold in roadside stands. We passed many old gas stations with pumps which were crumbling and in disrepair, and obviously had not been operational in years. We hit our first open, official gas station with pumps 300 km south of where we entered the country. We somehow felt that the gas would be better from the pump stations, although we were later told that the gas was all the same, people just dumped the same yellow plastic containers from Nigeria into the gas station holding tanks.

From Abomey we drove to Lac Aheme, Benin’s second largest lake and landed at Chez Theo. Partially under construction, the hotel had a shaded parking lot and a lakeside pool and welcomed us to camp. As we enter the hottest time of year here, our endurance is dwindling for hot, humid camping in the interior. Despite our primary love and happy place always being the wild camping spot, finding a way to camp where we can cool ourselves off has become a priority. When it is 99ºF with high humidity, there is a lot to be said for a shady spot under the palm trees and an empty hotel pool.

*Not at all what we imagined as a camping spot for overlanding in West Africa, but sometimes when it is just so hot, we give in. $8 for the night to park and camp on site and use the pool and showers.*

Still battling with the heat, we next opted to camp at the coast next in the sleepy ocean side town of Grand Popo. Instead of wild camping we found a hotel that welcomed us to camp on the beach in front and use the pool. For $6 a night, definitely worth it. We alternated between reading at the beach and heading to the pool to cool off.

*Beautiful hotel pool to ourselves. Again. (Where are all the visitors?)*

We had the added interest of watching the local men bring in the fishing nets. On two different nights we watched as they would haul in an enormous net over hours. The men would sing as they heaved and someone was always playing a cowbell. Teenage boys were sent into the water to control the net as it came in. The coordination and amount of work it took was compelling to watch. At the end when the final net came in, women and children would come with buckets and bowls to retrieve the catch. Culturally in Benin, men fish and women sell the fish in the market.

*Often 30-40 men working a single fishing net to bring in the catch*

For us, buying food is a constant learning experience. Homemade bread and fresh eggs are easy to find. Roadside markets sell loads of fresh fruit and vegetables, along with bulk rice and beans and a variety of grains and cassava. Always wary of our intestinal systems not being used to local microbes, we spray all fruits and vegetables with a light bleach solution which we then wash off with purified water before we eat them.

Food in West Africa is sold in outdoor markets with stalls staffed by women. Gifting is the norm– once you set your price and quantity, typically the seller will throw something additional in (Andy thinks it is because we overpay because we don’t know how to negotiate well enough). We do not buy meat, which is typically sold in live markets (butcher your own) or for beef, outdoor butcher counters that we worry about. That sensitive stomach thing again.

When we want to buy some of the foods we are more used to in the US, we have to find a supermarket in a big city and prices are horrendous. A small block of cheese is easily $8, cereal can be up to $15. Not surprising as these items are imported. Different combinations of rice and beans, potatos and veggies are working well for us though.

*A favorite breakfast, pan-toasted baguette with eggs*

After resting in Grand Popo, we were ready for more culture and learning. We drove east to Ouidah to visit the Zinsou Museum, famous for exhibiting contemporary African art. While we were there we also hired a guide for a few hours to teach us more about Voodoo and to show us some of the important sites along the Route of Slaves. Ouidah is known for both being the center of Voodoo in Benin and for being a slave trading hub.

*Photographs of the Voodoo spirits at the Zinsou Museum*

*Memorial on the site of the mass grave for people who died in captivity before being shipped overseas and sold as slaves*

*Site of the former slave market. Our guide, Marcellin Sakpo Degnon, giving us an important history lesson.*

The “Route of Slaves” in Ouidah is lined with painful sites memorializing the process of capturing, holding, selling and transporting human beings into slavery. Communities throughout Benin and the rest of West Africa were shaped and destroyed by the brutalities of the slave trade.

*And then on to learn more about Voodoo at the Python Temple*

*Andy the snake whisperer - always at ease with wildlife*

*Entering the Sacred Forest with statues of Voodoo divinities*

Marcellin was a super guide and we learned a lot from him, grateful that he spoke excellent English so that we could understand everything. Despite three months in mostly French-speaking West Africa, our French is still small small.

Still working our way east, along the coast now, our next stop was Ganvie. Built in the middle of Lake Nokoué 400 years ago, its unique history started in the era of slavery. In the 18th century, the people of the local Tofinu tribe were trying to escape from the soldiers of the Kingdom of Dahomey who were capturing people and selling them to Portuguese traders as slaves.

The ancestors of today's residents fled to the lake which was feared by the soldiers who believed a terrible demon lived under its surface. Knowing this, the tribe chose to build their homes on stilts in the middle of the water. The current population is over 35,000.

We toured the village in a boat with Natys, a local guide who grew up in the village. He even took us to his home.

*Traveling the main water way to Ganvie stilt village, full of fishing boats and local boat taxis*

*Houses built on stilts and separated by water– to visit your neighbor you must have a boat*

*Most houses have at least three boats, one for the man to fish, one for the women to take the fish to the mainland market, and one for the children to go to school.*

*Life is conducted on the water with floating markets and vendors*

*Drinking water is collected from a well with a spigot in large barrels and brought back to each house*

*Posing with our guide Nestys with the king of the village, on a rare and small island of land in the village.*

*It was a beautiful place and fascinating to learn about village life on the water*

Another captivating Benin experience. We realize looking back that when we do commit to paying for a guide it definitely deepens our experience - we end up having deeper conversations and understanding of the local culture. We cannot always do it, but it is worth noting.

Now, before entering another big city, it was time for some beach and ocean breezes. We found a delightful camping spot west of Cotonou on the beach where Blacky and his family gave us a warm welcome and helped us get into a beach side spot.

*Beachside camping at $3 a person at Paradis du Soleil east of Cotonou.*

Our final stop in Benin was Cotonou, not the capital but definitely the largest city and economic center. We planned to spend a couple of days exploring and then cross into Nigeria. The travel fates laughed at us once again.

Much as we enjoyed Cotonou, an easy city to navigate with calm traffic and wide sidewalks, we ended up spending too much time there waiting for the elusive Nigerian visas. We went from enjoying the city, to learning the city, to being tired of the city. There is a surprising lack of museums and cultural attractions for a city its size, but we did find a few. We became well acquainted with the rhythms of the city as we walked its streets day after day - the thwock of the shoe polisher advertising his services by banging a stick on a box, the incessant honking of the taxi motos who were sure if they got our attention we would decide to ride rather than walk, the cheerful cries of “white person!” in the local dialects.

We also met up with a fellow traveler who was also planning to cross into Nigeria, so we shared strategies and frustrations.

*Armando from Italy, traveling south on his Husqvarna*

*Learning about the different masks and their cultural uses in Benin*

*Finding some fun meals out - this was our favorite*

*Pizza time! not something we can make in the truck*

*Visiting the Notre Dame of Cotonou with its distinctive striping*

*Statue of the Amazon - representing the fierce women warriors of the Kingdom of Dahomey*

*Appreciating the beautiful street art along the main coastal roads*

View from the hotel we landed in to have wifi, do paperwork, and wait for our visa - Andy heading out to the truck for something. Dawn would pop the camper up in the parking lot to make dinner, pretty sure the security guards thought we were crazy.

Then the weekend came and knowing everything would shut down we headed back out to the beach to wait some more.

*But if you have to wait, it was a pretty great place to be*

*With built-in soccer game and fishing entertainment*

So at the time of writing, we are still at the beach, waiting . . . Really hoping to continue our journey soon! In three months in West Africa we have traveled 7500 miles and visited 12 countries. We are not giving up and turning around. As always, thank you for reading and wish us luck!

(Follow up note, we did get the visas! Left two days later and made it to Nigeria - see the West African Visa blog for that saga, but happy to be on our way.)

Breakdowns, Repairs and Maintenance, Part 2

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