Exploring Baja - Week Two: Bahía de los Ángeles to Mulegé
Up close with the grey whales!
Day 8 - Fishing at Bahía de los Ángeles, drive via La misión San Francisco Borja to Guerrero Negro- 4 hrs driving time
Andy’s passion is fishing. Although shore fishing had brought some success, and fish dinners, for this day, we booked a guide and a panga to take us into the bay. At the recommendation of the people at Campo Archelon, we went through Ricardo’s Diving Excursions and ended up spending a marvellous morning with our guide, Jonathan.
Despite being married to Andy for over 31 years, Dawn had never actually fished (although spent many a day riding in a raft/canoe/on the shore reading while Andy fished). With a commitment to try new things, she went along on the panga and actually caught her very first fish.
Dawn’s first fish - notice she is not actually touching it . . .
Andy was even more successful .
Fish for dinner for the next five nights (fried fish filets, breaded fried fish filets, fish tacos, more breaded fish filets, fish sandwiches).
In addition to the fishing, Jonathan took us round the offshore. We were all thrilled to be joined along the way by a solo Humpback whale.
La Ventana in Bahía de los Ángeles
Humpback whale
Despite the beauty and calm of Bahía de los Ángeles we were feeling the pull of more adventures ahead and after four hours of fishing, loaded up our fish filets and set off to drive to Guerrero Negro where more whale experiences awaited. We took the long way on an unpaved road through the desert to visit La misión San Francisco Borja. The route connected us back to MEX 1 at the tiny town of Rosarito. The road was washboarded and sandy in spots, but not bad. The desert cactus along the way were extraordinary.
Back road drive from Bahía de los Ángeles past La misión San Francisco Borja and on to MEX-1 at Rosarito.
More crazy cacti. With no children or pets to take photos of we somehow have become focused on taking pictures of our truck.
La misión San Francisco Borja - established 1762
Unfortunately the guide with the key was off on horseback so we could not get a tour, but the drive through the desert and viewing the mission was worth the detour. Next stop, Guerrero Negro where we needed to take care of some basics.
At the beginning of our second week, we needed to do laundry, re-fill propane tanks and pick up some groceries. Our fresh water tanks were OK, we have a UV purification system (see more on The Build page) and had been re-filling and treating from non-potable well sources at campgrounds along the way.
Guerrero Negro had everything we needed. We continued to be impressed with the COVID-19 precautions, hand sanitization and temperature checks required before entering businesses and masks mandatory. We found a fabulous lavenderia where a lovely woman did two loads of laundry for us in two hours for $9
El Lavadero de Mama - great laundrymat in Guerrero Negro. Masks required, one person per group allowed inside if you are doing your own.
We picked up groceries at Super Mercado Sonora - a warehouse style supermarket with a huge selection of local and international products and a large produce section.
Finally, we indulged our newest obsession - finding the best local Panaderia for a selection of desserts and breads.
Great Panaderia in Guerrero Negro. Hand sanitization station outside the door.
Since for us (or at least for Dawn) Guerrero Negro was all about the grey whales, we opted to camp at one of the outfitters right in town that we were set to go out with the next day. The camping area was basically a parking lot behind the restuarant and tour office but provided hot showers and flush toilets. Charge was $13. They advertised Wifi access but we found it too weak to work.
Malarrimo RV Park in Guerrero Negro - the sole campers.
Day 9 - Whale tour on Ojo de Liebre lagoon, drive to dispersed camping on Ojo de Liebre, 45 minutes.
The morning on the lagoon with Malarrimo tours exceeded all of our expectations. The absolute magic of being out on a boat and having the whales come in and choose to interact with us was incredible. Our boat driver, Jose was deeply knowledgeable and respectful of the whales who “queria jugar” and those who didn’t.
Gray whales coming into the boat (small 6 person panga) in Ocho de LIebre lagoon.
Coming in for a kiss.
As an antidote to our previous night in the parking lot, we drove out to camp at Ocho de LIebre. You pass through a gate with a guard who takes your license plate down, then drive through the salt works to dispersed dune camping. We could see the whales spouting in the far distance. We had heard that there may be a charge but there was no one to pay so the night was free. Facilities limited to garbage cans and the occasional pit toilet.
Ocho de Liebre dispersed camping in the dunes.
Cocktail hour.
Day 10 - drive from Ocho de Liebre to Bahia Asuncion - 90 mins
We had read good things about Campo Sirena in Bahia Asuncion and the beauty of this fishing village so headed there for our next night. We arrived and enjoyed a long coastal walk through the town and out to the point. Pretty much whenever we arrive somewhere the next move is to go for a long walk (Dawn drives this effort). Campo Sirena was a small sandy parking area on the bluff at the edge of town. It was deserted and the owner out of town so we guessed that we were missing out on the magic many had felt there. There was a small building with a delightful lending library of paperbacks and a toilet and shower. The caretaker came by and we paid $10 to use the facilities and Wifi.
Pier in Bahia Asuncion
Bahia Asuncion coast line
Camping at Campo Sirena, Bahia Asuncion.
Day 11 – Bahia de Asuncion to San Ignacio via La Bocana – 3 hours driving with coastal detour.
We left Bahia de Asuncion with the intention of driving to Campo Rene at Estero el Coyote and breaking out our inflatable kayak again. We had heard the camp provided Wifi and Andy had zoom meetings the next day. We took a coastal gravel road through La Bocana – parts of the drive were beautiful, parts more flat and dry desert with a very distant ocean view. Many of the washboards were conveniently being removed that day - we passed the grader. Along the way, we stopped at a remote coastal spot for Andy to fish and Dawn to walk.
Views along coastal dirt road from Bahia Asuncion to La Bocana
Upon reaching Campo Rene, we discovered that the camp was closed down and looked as if it had not been operational in a while. We drove an additional hour to San Ignacio and camped in a beautiful lagoon side oasis. Campo Petates charged $10 for the night – bucket flush toilets and a nice waterfront site with a picnic table. Andy made friends with the waterfowl by peeling the dates from the trees for them.
Our site at Campo Petates, San Ignacio
We walked a mile into town to see the mission and town square – a peaceful, serene spot with cafes dotted around. Still aware of being cautious with human contact, we returned to our camp spot to make dinner.
San Ignacio town center.
Mision San Ignacio
Day 12 - drive 45 minutes to Laguna San Ignacio
Still under the spell of our first amazing whale encounter we decided to go again and see a different lagoon. After all, “can one desire too much of a good thing?” We drove south to Antionio’s Ecotours camp. We camped lagoon side for $20, composting toilets and amazingly hot solar showers. With an amazing sunset thrown in.
We had another fantastic day on the water, staff at Antonio’s were incredible. We did not find as many friendly whales wanting to be touched, but still had some companions alongside the boat.
Grey whale visiting the boat in Laguna San Ignacio.
Day 13 – San Ignacio to Santa Rosalia – one hour driving
With no great camping that we knew of in Santa Rosalia and Andy needing some coverage for Zoom meetings– at this point we opted for our first hotel. Our first stay on the Sea of Cortez was at the Hotel Las Casitas in Santa Rosalia. For $50 we had what felt like a huge luxurious room with a balcony view. We even had the extra treat of his and her bathrooms.
View of the Sea of Cortez from Las Casitas Hotel in Santa Rosalia
Of course we countered the luxury hotel experience by frying up rice and beans in the parking lot in the camper for dinner. The next morning Dawn walked in to town to buy bread at the famous Boleo Bakery. Fabulous bolillos and a selection of pan dulces – total cost $4 for treats for the day.
Waterfront of Santa Rosalia
Boleo Panaderia - panaderias are our happy place.
We also found that there are actually two locations for Boleo. There is a satellite of the historic bakery right on MEX-1 past the town center. The advantages to this one – you can park out front, you can select your own pastries with a tray, and no lines. The historic location had lines both times we came through and you need to tell someone at the counter what you would like to purchase. Since we ignorantly don’t know the names of any of the pastries, this was a more challenging experience for us.
Day 14 – Santa Rosalia to Mulegé – one hour driving
Continuing south on MEX-1, we drove to the small village of Mulege on the Sea of Cortex and stayed at Campo Huerta Don Chano - $10 a night. Across from the river and equidistant walking from the town center and the beach, the locale was tranquil and convenient. The grounds are carefully tended, hot showers and flush toilets on site. The camp hosts a number of ex-pats who are on extended stays here. We enjoyed the quiet, slowing down, walking to the beach where Andy tried his hand (unsuccessfully) at some shore fishing. With a private grassy site, Dawn was able to break out the yoga mat and work out the kinks with some previously downloaded classes.
Travelling in the time of COVID has had its benefits and drawbacks. We are self contained and able to stay as isolated as if we were in a stationary home. However, we miss the conversations with local people, experiencing local food, culture and understanding. We are hopeful for more of this in the future. In the meantime, we focus on outdoor activities, many many walks and hikes, not such a bad compromise.
Views on our walks from our Mulegé campground.
