Exploring Baja - Week Six: Punta la Tinaja to Mulegé
Playa los Cerritos - surfers waiting
Day 36 - Punta la Tinaja to Playa Los Cerritos – 20 minutes driving
After a beautiful remote night on our own, we thought it would be fun to watch the surfers at Los Cerritos. We motored briefly up the coast and checked into the camping area right next to the famous beach. We paid $10 to camp right next to the beach. We appreciated the recently built and extremely clean restroom facilities.
Camping at Playa Los Cerritos
We were once again easily amused, watching surfers for a couple hours over breakfast.
Morning surf at Los Cerritos
Day 37 – Playa Los Cerritos to Todos Santos
With Dawn being an art lover, the reputation of Todos Santos as an artist community was drawing her to visit. The town’s architecture was attractive, but we were missing the authentic Mexican vibe. Most of the stores were filled with Cabo-style mass produced souvenirs. Prices were listed in US dollars everywhere (never a good sign in our minds).
Streets of Todos Santos
We found our bliss on the beach north of town – camped a mile north of La Pastura beach, alone except for the two Mexican families who joined us for the sunset.
Wild camping one mile north of Todos Santos and La Pastora beach
The next day we hit DoceCuarentos for what we had been told was the best Wifi in town (excellent! and the coffee too) then splurged on lunch at The Green Room at the beach, a restaurant which had been recommended to us by some Mexican tourists. It lived up to expectations.
DoceCuarenta - great coffee house in Todos Santos with Wifi
The Green Room outside of Todos Santos- beachside gourmet dining - amazing!
Day 38 – Todos Santos to La Paz 1 hour 40 minutes
We broke the journey north back at La Paz, with beaches closed to camping due to COVID and a desire to minimize contact with Semana Santa travellers, we checked into Campestre Maranatha. Beautifully landscaped with a pool and the best showers we had in Baja, we happily paid the $15 for the night. The campground had all the amenities including an overnight security guard and Wifi.
Camping at Campestre Maranatha, La Paz, Andy found a happy spot.
Day 39 – La Paz to Punto Conejo – 90 minutes driving
Working our way back north we decided to detour off of MEX-1 and drive about ten miles to Punto Conejo. Washboardy but very driveable, the dirt road passed through barren desert landscape and ended up at the Pacific Ocean. We bypassed the fee site (Rancho El Conejo with pit toilets and cold showers) and drove back south along the coast to find a gorgeous bluff top site with a view of the coast for miles.
Bluff top camping at Punto Conejo. Loving the solitude. Society is no comfort to one not sociable.
We set off on an evening walk filled with adventure - dodging waves around the rocks and catching crabs.
Beautiful crabs
Day 40 – Punto Conejo to Puerto Escondido – 3.5 hours driving
Re-tracing our steps is not our favorite so we started adding the miles to get up to the northern end of the Sea of Cortez that we hadn’t visited yet. We spent the night back at Puerto Escondido - boondocking at Rattlesnake Beach - easy and convenient.
Day 41 – Puerto Escondido to Mulege– 2 hours driving
Re-visiting another favorite place, we camped at Huerta Don Chano RV Camp in Mulege - $10 and hot showers, a washing machine and a beautifully landscaped oasis by the river. We saw the effects of spring break crowding on the Bahia Concepcion beaches - despite the reputed closures we could see the crowds from MEX-1 and decided not to stop.
