Malawi

*Camped at a wildlife hide in Majete Reserve*

Malawi is nicknamed the “warm heart of Africa” for good reason. A small densely populated country, the people are some of the kindest and most welcoming we have encountered on our travels. Even though the country was suffering from economic and fuel crises, people went out of their way to greet us and give a friendly welcome.

Similar to most of the African countrys we had visited (now 26!) in Malawi, interactions between people are based in courtesy, caring and a strong sense of humor. When you greet someone, you ask how they are, and you wait for an answer. Then they will ask you back and also wait to hear. And then the real reason for the conversation can take place. People smile and look each other in the eye.

We have learned to slow down our typically American “straight to the point” styles and take the time to connect before asking for information or diving into business. But the first night in Malawi, we were late over the border, roads took longer than usual (a common story) and we were trying to find our camp after dark which is always stressful for us. We were driving along a dirt road thinking it would take us to where we were going to camp when we arrived at a private security barricade. Dawn rolled down the window and jumped in with “do you know where Zua Safari Camp is?” The guard approached, smiled kindly and said, well first, “how are you tonight?” Schooled in courtesy. Dawn was mortified but it was a great reminder.

*Our two week route through Malawi, mostly heading north along the lake*

Our primary challenge in Malawi was managing the fuel situation. We came fully loaded, including two full Rotopax, but our truck is a thirsty beast, averaging 14 miles per gallon. Heading to the southern tip to visit Majete Reserve, we passed scores of empty gas stations. Finally we asked a police officer at a barricade check point if he knew where we could find fuel. He pointed us down a road heading to Mozambique. We thought, hm, maybe we could cross the border and fuel up?

*The road we were driving was the border between Malawi and Mozambique*

So we pulled up to the border and asked a border guard if it was possible to cross to get fuel. In what we quickly learned was typical Malawian helpfulness, he called over a young man on a motorbike. Andy hopped on with borrowed jerry cans and headed to Mozambique with all our spare kwachas while Dawn stayed with the truck.

*Dawn waited with the truck, watching hopefully for their return*

*A grateful thank you photo to our helpers*

Andy had read about the Majete Wildlife Reserve, an up and coming success story similar to Gorongosa in Mozambique. With investment and careful development, the park was being restored and re-populated after decades of poaching.

Andy’s birthday was approaching so we decided so live it up at a private camp with a pool.

*Beautiful pool with a view of the river*

But all was not idyllic. Never really one to rest, on his birthday, Andy decided it was time to change the oil and in the middle of the process, a critical part broke. With the assistance of the kind campground host, Lucky, he made calls to the closest Toyota dealer to find out about a replacement. We were told it would take four weeks. (!) So, plan B. Lucky called her friend a local mechanic. He came with his co-worker, they dismantled the part, said “no problem, one hour” and took it off to their shop. An hour later they returned with the part welded together perfectly. More Malawian helpfulness and classic African ability to be able to fix anything.

*Our ingenious mechanics from the local electric company*

The next night we had had made a reservation to spend the night at a hide in Majete Wildlife reserve - another birthday splurge.

*Shire River in Majete Wildlife Reserve*

*Our private hide at a watering hole - Nakabi Hide*

*And then breakfast with a view! A wild dog came to join us*

Although the water hole at the hide was not teaming with wildlife while we were there, it was a magical experience just to know we were the only ones there overnight. The anticipation of the unknown made it exciting - we accompanied each other to the separate toilet building in the evening.

*Lines would sometimes go on for a mile, especially in big cities*

The fuel situation continued to be a challenge - it was affecting people’s livelihood and ability to access basic resources. We learned to look for the long line of motorcycles (they also used petrol, diesel was not such an issue), then check to see if they were actually pumping gas (people would line up sometimes a day or two in advance of an expected delivery) then get in line and hunker down to wait.

At one of the two gas stations we waited at during our time in Malawi, we had one of our most painful experiences in Africa. It was common practice for gas stations to jump foreign tourists to the front of the line as a courtesy. Although we appreciated the kindness and the savings of many hours in a hot line, it was also somewhat embarrassing and awkward for us. We never took this for granted, always taking our place in line with everyone else initially.

This day, police officers were onsite for crowd control. The officer in charge walked back to us and waved us forward to the front of the line. As he was clearing a path, a young man on a motorbike with headphones on didn’t hear the officer ask him to get out of the way. The officer became angry and started shouting at the young man and eventually grabbed the headphones and broke them. The young man reacted emotionally pushing the officer and a fight ensued, with the young man being beaten by multiple officers and carried off, the rest of us in the crowd watching in silence.

It was a moment when we really didn’t know what to do and in retrospect there are so many things we would have and could have done differently. We look back on that day with pain and shame and still remember the look of horror on the young man’s face as he saw his headphones shattered by the officer. We wish we had known how to effectively intervene or make things better. We would rather have waited for hours than had that outcome. Some of the realities of our travel are not happy or pretty and have consequences for others that we regret.

Feeling a little shaken, we decided to head up to the mountains for some high plateau cool breezes and hiking.

*Beautiful cool campsite at the Trout Farm*

And then more of the realities of traveling in Malawi as obvious tourists. We felt the economic need from people for money and food more than in almost any other country. It was clear people were struggling to eat. We woke up at the campsite to these young women hoping to sell us some fruit they had picked. Of course we bought some. Best blackberry type fruit we had ever had.

*Young women outside our camper waiting to sell us fruit*

*Lines of women were walking down from the mountain to the village far below, carrying firewood.*

Continuing with our desire to limit our national park visits to bring our budget back in line, we headed to Liwonde National Park but camped at Liwonde Safari Lodge on the edge of the park where we could view animals from their beautiful hides but not have to pay the park fees.

*Pumba (Swahili for “silly”) in the water hole*

In each country we visit, we are fascinated by the local architecture and building materials. In Malawi, almost all of the village houses were built of red brick. Kilns and brick molding sites dotted the roads at regular intervals.

*Typical red building bricks, stacked up and ready to be built with*

Then finally, time to visit Lake Malawi - the third deepest fresh water lake in the world and home to the most fish species.

*Pulling into camp at Monkey Bay- Mufasa Rustic Backpackers camp*

*More bicycles than anywhere else in Africa (which makes sense with the gas situation)*

Next, we made our way to Rafiki Safari Lodge, on the edge of the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. Unlike the Liwonde Safari Lodge, it did not give us the experience of being at the edge of a national park - it was more of a standard hotel with bush camping but fenced. We realize that our strategy of trying to save money by always staying outside the national park was not going to give us the richest experience. But in Malawi, we felt that our priority was not wildlife viewing.

*Walking along the Bua river (no hippos)*

Then, because we always have to be planning ahead for travel logistics, we met up with our future shipping container buddies from Germany. With the war in Sudan and Ethiopia effectively banning foreign car entry, overland travelers are mostly following a route from Kenya to the Arabian peninsula which involves complicated shipping logistics. We are glad to share a 40’ container not only to share costs but to figure out the complex requirements. What better place to plan than another beautiful lakeside campground (Ngala Beach).

Our final big stopover in Malawi was Chelinda Camp, high in the Nyika National Park plateau. Another up and coming national park the endless grassland highland vistas once again provided welcome relief from the lowland heat. At the time Malawi was experiencing major heat waves at the lake.

Despite the lake being home to so many fascinating endemic fish species, we did not swim in it. A recent recurrence of Bilharzia in the lake made us squeamish. Many people swore it was safe, a group of German medical students doing internships said they swam and then took the antidote afterwards to be sure, but the whole scenario made us nervous. The idea of worms growing in our urinary tracts and intestines was horrifying. Plus the treatment is only effective once the worms have started growing so you wait and then kill them. We admit it, we were chicken hearted. This meant that our heat coping mechanism shifted from swimming in cool water to afternoon showers. Andy has been known to take a cold shower fully clothed, then just sit in the heat slowly drying. Then repeat.

*Daytime view - and a shockingly welcome 75’ as opposed to the 95’ we had been battling*

*Requisite selfie with our camp host, Mateo, most hospitable host we have ever encountered*

*The “I can walk without sweating” smile*

*Chelinda Camp - the only camping in Nyika National Park, not cheap at $25 pp per night, but beautifuil*

He may not be fond of the idea of worms growing in his urinary tract, but Andy never hesitates to catch and old whatever wildlife he can get his hands on.

Despite hearing lions at night, the insects and antelope were the extent of our wildlife encounters in the park.

We spent a morning walking with naturalist Blessing to learn about the flora and fauna.

*Chosi Viewpoint in Nyika National Park*

With our time in Malawi coming to an end we made one last detour to check out the iconic “Mushroom Farm” outside of Livingstonia. A restaurant, lodge and overland camp the Mushroom Farm has been making a name for itself for excellent food, uniquely built facilities along a cliff’s edge and a variety of curated cultural experiences and outdoor activities. In the past the only access had been a steep switchbacked hairpin curved road up the mountain, but a new access road coming up the west side of LIvingstonia has made it easier for visitors.

*View from the composting toilet - best toilet view so far*

Well, that is it for Malawi, we will continue our journey into the more touristed Tanzania, where gas is plentiful and we are sure adventures await. Thank you for reading!

Tanzania

Zambia